Clean Swell Sessions. June 2, 2018.
This day the surf at Back Beach was clean, even at high tide. The waves broke in sections, spread out the surfers, and provided space for longer boards. The vibe was great. There was a jump in the surf the following day. Bigger sets mean overhead, whomping close outs ( or “walls of death” as I used to call it). Des surfed again on our pinky, 8.0 surftech and got a few thrills.
The surf changes rapidly with the daily large tide fluctuations. So, when it’s good you’ve got 2 hours before it isn’t.
Of note, my camera has reached the end of it’s life. The autofocus fatigued, necessitating manual focus to snap photos in the prior posts. Now that function has expired too. The photos on this post were taken with my old iPhone, in my wetsuit, in the cold and rain. Please forgive the quality.
Below are shots of “the Groin” surf spot, perfect for short boogie board rides. Biking farther north along the coastal walkway, I usually bike pass these guys, “moo!”