Clean Swell Sessions. June 2, 2018.
This day the surf at Back Beach was clean, even at high tide. The waves broke in sections, spread out the surfers, and provided space for longer boards. The vibe was great. There was a jump in the surf the following day. Bigger sets mean overhead, whomping close outs ( or “walls of death” as I used to call it). Des surfed again on our pinky, 8.0 surftech and got a few thrills.
The surf changes rapidly with the daily large tide fluctuations. So, when it’s good you’ve got 2 hours before it isn’t.
Of note, my camera has reached the end of it’s life. The autofocus fatigued, necessitating manual focus to snap photos in the prior posts. Now that function has expired too. The photos on this post were taken with my old iPhone, in my wetsuit, in the cold and rain. Please forgive the quality. 
Nothing wrong with the iphone shots…..waves still look like fun, except for the rubber suits. Does the water ever get warm?
June 9, 2018 at 9:38 pm
Hi Ewell, yes but that won’t be for another 6 months when summer comes. Water temp is around 58-60 degrees now so not too cold.
June 9, 2018 at 11:04 pm
Cool!!! Pictures I’m on Ocracoke Island this month. Clean clear water fewer people No Trash ! Pretty waves this week. Work is great people awesome it’s great to be back.
June 11, 2018 at 7:24 am
Awesome, happy to hear. No, I don’t miss the trash either, ha ha!
June 11, 2018 at 3:23 pm